Maybe the constant stream of rumours about Stefano Pilati’s departure at YSL is giving him more grief than he is letting on. Whilst he appears to be ‘getting on with the job’, it’s obvious his designs are suffering. Whilst last SS2011 was a delight to behold, ever since then something has gone amiss. Resort 2012 was kitschy beyond words – not something you expect from one of the most highly regarded fashion houses in the world. Now SS2012 has just been revealed, and we are left wanting…. anything really. The opening look was promising. The print harks back to the swinging 70s, reminding us of some kind of fun upholstery. After that however, the whole collection just morphs into one. Numerous 90s style halter tops are paired back with flat coloured pants, or high waisted A-line skirts worn with ill fitting military style belts.

Even though there was lots of colour, they all seemed a bit lack lustre. It could be the repeat of the same silk in almost every outfit, or the silhouettes that did nothing for the models lithe frames. The second half of the show diverged into full on 90s mode with long skirts worn low on the hips with a hipster belt. Anyone who ever wore a thick, hipster belt will know that trend couldn’t end soon enough. But apparently it’s back. Thanks Stefano. Chanel and Versace also got a look in with numerous gold blingy chain belts, worn with white or bubblegum pink. The whole thing just didn’t make sense, or perhaps it was the fact this style came out of nowhere. Pilati has worked hard to have YSL held high as one of the chicest labels to show on any fashion week schedule. We have seen the bias hem ruffles from him many times before, and most successfully in Pilati’s first ever collection for YSL (still one of our favourites, in any label).

On going through the YSL archives it’s interesting to see how the house has developed over the years. Tom Ford provided the sex pot years, and they were amazing. If only he could show that style of grace and innovativeness now in his own label. The AW2003 show was the pinnacle. Amazing.

So anyway, the shoes here were good. But they always are. We wonder who is in charge of designing them? Hopefully Pilati can shake off whatever is bringing him down and return to his former glory for next season.