3.1 PHLLIP LIM

Phillip Lim is upping the anti for stylish young guys. For his latest collection, he celebrated the exuberance of youth with a punk skate-inspired collection. Having grown up in California, the local skate scene was a natural point of reference for Lim. In one cohesive collection, he combined reflective boots, jumpsuits, denim drawstring pants and sporty silk trenches. The mix made the collection grungy, but it was no less elegant for it. In fact, by embracing a youthful aesthetic, Lim created one of his most mature menswear collections yet. The introduction of a delicious shade of lemon yellow was the icing on a very well rounded cake.

ALEXANDER WANG

No one does sporty chic better than Alexander Wang. Aiming to “visit the classics”, Wang revamped the staples in his own wardrobe to create a collection that felt real. There were track pants, shorts, hoodies and varsity jackets, all refined with a minimal colour palette, impeccable tailoring and precise cuts. These were menswear basics without pretence or elements that screamed ‘fashion’; rather, the focus was on recreating Wang’s own uniform from quality fabrics with excellent attention to detail. Unfortunately, as chic and wearable as the line was, one standout look doesn’t spring to mind. It’s fine that Wang doesn’t want to reinvent the wheel, but there is something almost unmemorable about the garments in this collection, and that’s something no designer aims for.

BALENCIAGA

Nicholas Ghesquière unexpectedly toned down his signature sportiness for the Spring 2012 collection. Men came down the runway in tailored suits, looking preppy, polished and clean-cut. Outerwear was strong: neoprene bombers, ski sweaters and nylon jackets were worn with coloured jeans, turtlenecks and stovepipe pants. The silhouette was slim, harking back to the casual chic of the sixties with splashes of colour that prevented the clean look from going clinical. There was something a little bit A Single Man about the collection—it’s not hard to imagine Nicholas Hoult’s Firth-flirting character sporting any of these covetable knits. Thank god he didn’t though: the feel of his lovely new lightweight cotton sweater might have inspired him to keep his kit on.

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION

While some designers would feel restricted by the Calvin Klein brand’s signature aesthetic, designer Italo Zucchelli must enjoy experimenting within the realms of stark minimalism. His Spring 2012 collection celebrated masculinity and athleticism in a way that was almost clinical; certainly the goggle-like glasses helped to bring the point home. Tim Blanks explained that Zucchelli was referencing Bruce Weber’s issue of Interview, which celebrated the 1984 Olympics in Los Angeles, hypothesizing that the reference was intentional given that Weber was so influential in defining the brand in its early years. Seeing as the tank tops stretched over taut, tanned muscular physiques at the show, it’s clear that the man Weber envisioned for the brand is still very much alive.

DRIES VAN NOTEN

The Dries Van Noten show is always a highlight at Men’s Fashion Week. This season, the designer was inspired by outdoor activities traditionally associated with masculinity: think fishing, riding and hunting. Garments gleamed like freshly wet raincoats, combining silk, nylon and more plastic-y fabrics to create differing levels of shine. The colour scheme was a rich combination of navy and burgundy, punctuated by hypercolour reds, mustard yellow and punchy stripes. Black bonding tape broke up solid-colour outerwear, juxtaposing chic and cheap in an interesting way. To be honest, there isn’t a garment in this collection that we wouldn’t have been tempted to tear straight off the model as it debuted on the runway.

GIVENCHY

Riccardo Tisci’s latest collection for Givenchy was a bit of a surprise: no black! The predominantly white and green collection had a tropical bird of paradise bloom print, which made its way onto most of the garments. Inspired by Hawaiian surf culture, Tisci’s men stepped into the light and gleamed brilliantly, some of them even wearing sparkling sequined jumpers that really set the collection off. Hang-ups to do with manliness were left at the door, with Givenchy’s models predominantly attired in skirts. The look was super natural, and it really hit its peak as the sportier side to the Givenchy aesthetic shone through.

KRIS VAN ASSCHE

This season, Kris Van Assche made suits sporty. While athleticism may have inspired his collection, he still stuck to a colour scheme that was predictably black, grey and white. Imagining the men in Santa Monica riding their bikes to work, Van Assche set about making the suit less stiff, freeing up movement for the early morning rider-cum-business man. Cuffs were cropped, fabrics were light as a feather, and the sleeves of polo shirts made longer as if to formalise them somewhat. Unfortunately, there was nothing unexpected about Kris Van Assche’s collection. Although the clothes will most likely sell, Van Assche needs to take things to the next level to impress his critics.

PRADA

Miucca Prada sent a club of preppy pro golfers down the runway this season. We can’t help but wonder whether style was their handicap. The eccentric outfits were inspired by the sport that style forgot, and Miucca’s models were no exception from the rule, wearing a playful mix of check tailoring, bright floral-prints and western-inspired garments. But don’t think for a second that we didn’t enjoy the collection. Those prints really popped, the suits had lovely cuts, those western shirts smacked of fun, and the shoes were perfect, as one usually expects from Prada. It was a case of so bad, it’s good.