Lucinda Rose Constable • 22 February 2012

It’s not everyday a young Australian designer shows at London Fashion Week, especially after just four years in business. Anyone who follows fashion would know Dion Lee’s star has been steadily rising over this period, but to show on schedule and to be reviewed on is a hefty achievement. Many brands still do not receive recognition from this online powerhouse, and let’s be honest, it’s the go-to for everyone, meaning everyone will now see his show. Incredible. ‘Sequence (Breathing)’ is Lee’s offering for AW1213, as debuted in the Portico Rooms yesterday through a runway/presentation format.

As Lee told to, “the collection was inspired by breathing and the idea of air moving through the different pieces. It began with menswear tailoring and was broken down and fract

ured, dropping down to show transparent layering. Then we have this light reflective fringing to mimic veins and it’s about the idea of circulation.” The result was 15 concise looks, all in a tight colour palette of white, black, silver and red. Each exit was even more labour intensive than the next, the light-reflective fringing being the most delicate fabric to work with. Lee also experimented with knitting the reflective strips, the finished product being a series of tanks, sweaters and skirts – perfect for any occasion, but especially a dance floor with a UV light!

As far as Lee’s personal progression goes, this was by far the most conceptually developed and mature collection to date. The construction was refined and seriously impeccable – sheer georgette shirts and blazers had crepe de chine bra tops built in, so there goes that underwear worry! Playing with sheer fabrics and transparencies is a big aspect of Lee’s clothing, but here it was taken to the next level with long georgette skirts and pants wrapping around the legs and becoming one with short tailored skirts.

The light reflective flapper style dresses were the real show-stoppers though, setting the scene with a stunning film by director Lorin Askill. The film, starring Ruby Jean Wilson, was shot in Sydney two weeks ago. Imagine complete blackness with a spotlight occasionally highlighting Ruby Jean’s moving form and a flurry of shining sliver fringing. Absolutely magical. Stay tuned for that one soon. Lee also continued his love affair with mesh, this time preferring the barely-there nude variety, already debuted with Rachael Taylor’s AACTA Awards gown. The shoes were scarily vertiginous, but we would expect nothing less from Lee who collaborated with Kanye West on the feline footwear. West has taken a shining to Lee, sitting front row for one of the presentations.

The whole collection can be seen above, as well as some candid Instagram shots from Dale McKie. Enjoy! And above all, major congratulations to Dion. We couldn’t be more proud.