The SS2013 Burberry show was almost like a ‘best of’. Creative Director Christopher Bailey has looked back to his own archives, with hints of many a successful collection coming through. There were the opening white looks, reminiscent of the clean, crisp white wool trenches from AW2011. Bright block coloured garments were also omnipresent in 2011, invigorated for 2012 with softer detailing like gathered busts and hems. Peplums were a carry on of the feminine story brought to life in Pre-Fall 2012 and AW2012, but now richer in deep hued duchess satin. It was all very royale in its look.
The metallic looks were where things started getting interesting. Bailey has always had a love affair with shiny things, seen most prominently in SS2011 with his hard-edged gold biker jackets covered in studs. At the time this collection had mixed reviews about its taste levels in the Burberry scheme of things, but in hindsight, it was probably the collection which got the historic house in touch with the youth. Whatever his influences may be, Bailey produced a versatile collection for SS2013, with something for every Burberry customer – of which there are many. After just opening an enormous flagship on Regent St, it’s clear the retail slump is having no effect whatsoever.
The more conservative satin opera coats will appeal to an older distinguished lady, as will the hot-pant version for her daughter (or granddaughter). Paper-thin metallic foil was printed and polarised, used in shirts, skirts and simple shifts. The leather version will make for great editorial pieces, sexing up the Burberry lady of the past two seasons. Bailey also experimented with coloured ombre – quite the trend in fashion, and hair, at the moment. It worked extremely well in fuchsia and crimson for the daring customer.
Bailey always does something fun for the last walk, in the past making the catwalk rain or snow. This season it was a rainbow of metallic trenches, all worn with sunglasses and jelly coloured bags. The overall collection wasn’t as tight as some in the past, but there was definitely more variety on offer. We just hope someone nabs all the end looks for a huge editorial shoot, something along the lines of early 90s Versace.